Cloth Types: All of our cloths are custom woven to specifications derived from extant historic samples or documentary specifications. Follow the link above for examples of contemporary source fabrics.
Colours: Due to environmental protection and cost issues our cloths are dyed using modern dyes. However, they are accurately matched to original hsitoric colour samples or small patterns dyed using contemporary dye receipts from historic documents. If you would like to discuss specific colour requirements for a particular project please contact us.
Some links to examples of our primary research sources and guidance notes can be seen below.
Materials: Military contracts were tightly controlled with clear definitions of which cloths different garments were to be made. Samples of these have been preserved in various archives and pattern books allowing them to be clearly identified. The attached table summarises which cloths were used for which purposes.
Sizing: Soldier's coats were mass produced, consequently they were produced in numbered sizes. During the NapoleonicWars British Infantry coats were generally produced in 3 Sizes,imaginatively titled No1, No2 & No 3. If circuemstances permitted (if the unit was in garrison in England, for example) they might well be fitted by the Regimental Tailors, otherwise the soldier would wear the coat as it came.
Materials: There were no detailed regulations for Officer's clothing prior to the middle of the 19th C, consequently there was more leeway in the materials used. However, contemporary tailors knew the most suitable materials for various applications and details of each Regiment's coats were held by the Adjutant, so although there might be some alternatives available (Cassimere instead of Superfine for turnbacks, for example) in practice any changes would be minimal. For more information on specific Regiments please contact us.
Sizing: Officer's coats were 'bespoke', that is, made for the individual (and contimued to be so for British Officers until the end of 2009) by his tailor. There was no pattern as such; the Officer's measurements would be taken and the pattern drafted straight onto the cloth using whichever system for calculating the proportions the tailor chose to use.