Cloths available during this era had developed over hundreds of years, stout woollens for wear in an age before mass transit where even the wealthiest were subject to the vagaries of the weather.  Lighter worsted fabrics were used for linings.

Broadcloths, heavily milled, stout, plain weave woollen cloths capable of taking a cut edge without fraying.

-Common Quality for soldiers and working men.
-Second Quality for Gentlemen’s overcoats.
-Superfine Quality for Gentlemen’s dress coats.
-Kerseys: twill woven woollens for working clothes.
-Piece dyed: Solid colours for Soldiers’ waistcoats, cloaks etc.
Mixture Kersey: for British Napoleonic Soldiers’ Greatcoats.
-Blue Grey Mixture Kersey (also known as English Army Cloth (EAC) Tait Kersey etc): for ACW Confederate Enlisted Uniforms and later C19th C British Soldiers’ Greatcoats.
-Pant Kersey: A special weave used for making Pants for Federal (in Sky Blue) and Confederate (In French Royal Blue) soldiers during the ACW.


Softer, more flexible fabrics to line coats etc, worsteds and unions cloths.

-Bay: a cheap, loose, plain weave fabric for linings.
-Serge: a twill fabric used for better quality linings.
-Shalloon: a fine worsted twill for high quality linings.
-Hollands: glazed linen for pocketing, waistbands, stays etc.
-Silk Serge: a fine, crisp silk in a complex twill weave seen as linings in high quality 18th and 19th C garments; Royal Naval Officers’ Coats, Court Suits, Officers’ Dress Coats & Jackets.